Pinzgauer Window Replacement

Back in 2002 I decided to replace the windows on the soft top of my Pinz. The old ones were scratched to hell and I needed to replace them as they were cracking badly when it got cold. I followed the instructions below, however  I realized in winter that the windows shrink a little and the glue wasn't holding that well, so I modified the replacement technique.

 Instead of using contact cement I decided to use the sew on velcro without actually sewing it.

1.After cleaning out the window channels, I cut a section of the loop (soft)  portion of the velcro to fit around the plastic window.

2. I then scuffed the window up and cleaned it.

3. Finally I applied super-glue to the back of the loop (soft) portion of the velcro and attached it to the window.

4. I then applied the same technique to the window channels, but used the hook (scratchy) portion for that area.

5. I applied this to the outer area and inner area of the window channel.

You'll need LOTS of velcro for this project.  But when it's done, the windows are able to flex a bit in the winter/summer temperature extremes, and you will be able to remove the windows when you don't want them to get scratched.

Below you will find the original instructions I used, along with some pictures of the project. Remember when the temperatures change, the plastic has a tendency to stretch and contract, so consider the velcro window mounting technique if this is a concern for you.

sewing has been cut	windows are taped open for cleaning
close-up	scuffed window
installed windows	light in the rear
view of stitching	rear window!!
interior view	side view

Original instructions courtesy of Al Fink

Sometime in 2000 one of the Denver area Pinzers had all ten small
plastic windows replaced by a local upholstery shop. It cost around
US$300 and took a fair amount of time.

I've just begun to replace mine; the total cost will be about US$30
and will provide a nicer, improved window in my opinion. Here's how
to do yours.

1. Find an automotive upholstery wholesaler and ask if they'll sell
to you at retail. Inquire about 40 mil convertible window plastic.
The Pinz windows are 50 mil but apparently that's unavailable in the
USA. My material came in a 54" roll and I bought 4 LF of that for
around US$25

2. Get a can of contact cement - very useful for attaching Velcro all
over the Pinz, also. A pint will do. Get some small throw-away
stiff-bristle brushes. You'll also need several single-bladed razor
blades or an X-Acto knife.

3. Bend the stiff corners of the razor blades up to 90 degrees - you
just need to bend up enough on the corners to get a vice-grip to hold
the blade tightly. Do one on the left and another on the right side
of the blade as you'll need to cut stuff in two directions

4. With a razor blade gripped tightly in the vice-grip, cut down into
the thread around one of plastic windows. It's easier to cut one row
of sewing at a time. Cut both outside rows all around and then get
the sewing on the inside of the top cut the same way. Be careful as
it's easy to cut the canvas. You'll need to swap blades to cut
clockwise and then counter-clockwise to sever all the sewing. IF you
want to replace the ten little windows rather than reverting to the
Austrian style of having just five larger ones, you'll have to be
careful to leave the sewing on the center canvas strip intact. I went
for the simpler and lighter approach and took the horizontal strip
out.

5. From the inside of the vehicle, cut diagonally into each corner of
each opening - be it five or ten of them. You'll want to lay these
flaps back later to lay the plastic into the window.

6. Clean out the insides of the pockets the plastic window was sewn
into. Lots of dirt and dust there. Acetone works fine.

7. Take the top off for best results when installing the plastic.
Consider where you can use contact cement in relative warmth and
without asphyxiating the family.

8. Lay out the top with the OUTSIDE down. Cut plastic windows to fit
into the 5, 6, 10 or 11 holes you have to fill. Cut a little smaller
as you don't want the material bottoming out in the pockets.

9. Bend the "inside" flaps back; lay each piece in its hole and then
mark with masking tape just how far onto the plastic the flaps will
cover. I'm not sure the next step is absolutely necessary, but I did
hit the outside perimeter of each window with a belt sander on both
sides - just more purchase for the contact cement.

10. Tape back the inside flaps of each opening and then coat the
inside of the outer flap with cement. Coat the perimeter of the
window also and allow both to dry. With the top stretched taut
around the opening you're working on, carefully lay the new window
into its opening - remember, with contact cement you get one try -
only.

11. Next, apply cement to the inside of the inside flap and on the
window. Let both dry and press it all down tight. Let it set up
well overnight.

12. I believe that eliminating the horizontal strip will reduce work
time considerably. More light comes into the back and gives
passengers there much better views out. Careful cutting will sever
the thread from the inside of the pockets cleanly and the glue seems
to have saved most all the appearance of sewing on the outside.
Presto, new windows, cheaper and perhaps better! Now I have to get
out there and get some of our wildly coveted Rocky Mountain
Pin striping all over the new side windows!

Al Fink
 

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